Pasta in Parmesan Rind Broth
The rind you were never going to grate turns into the best thing in the bowl: a savory, faintly milky broth that the pasta finishes cooking in. Lemon and butter at the end keep it from going heavy. Eats halfway between pasta and soup, which on a tired Tuesday is exactly right.
Ingredients
- parmesan rind (plus any cheese still attached)the whole piece
- garlic cloves, smashed2
- water1.5 litres / 6 cups
- olive oil, cooking2 tbsp
- chili flakesa good pinch, more to taste
- dried pasta (short shapes or broken long strands)half a box, about 200 g
- salted butter2 tbsp, cold
- lemonzest of half, juice to taste
- salt and black pepperto taste
- olive oil, finishinga slow drizzle
Method
Warm the olive oil in a saucepan over medium-low heat with the smashed garlic and half the chili flakes. Let them sizzle gently, not brown.
Watch for
The garlic should smell sweet and toasted; pull the pan off the heat if it starts going amber.
Add the water and the parmesan rind. Bring to a bare simmer and leave it for 20-25 minutes, uncovered. Salt lightly — the rind is bringing salt of its own.
Watch for
The rind softens and swells, and the broth turns faintly cloudy and smells like the inside of a cheese shop.
Fish out the rind and the garlic. If the rind has gone soft and chewy, dice it small and keep it — it's the cook's reward, or it goes back in the bowl.
Watch for
A rind that's still hard has more to give; simmer another ten minutes.
Taste the broth and correct the salt now, before the pasta goes in. It should taste like something you'd drink.
Watch for
Flat and watery means it needs salt, not more time.
Add the pasta straight to the broth and cook until just shy of done, stirring more than you would in a big pot of water — there's less liquid and it will want to stick.
Watch for
The broth thickens noticeably as the starch comes out. You want it loose but clinging, not soupy-thin.
Off the heat, swirl in the cold butter a piece at a time, then the lemon zest and a squeeze of juice. Taste, add the rest of the chili if you want it.
Watch for
The broth goes glossy and a shade paler when the butter emulsifies. If it looks greasy, a splash more broth and a hard stir brings it back.
Serve in wide bowls, spoon alongside. Finish with black pepper and a drizzle of good oil.
Watch for
It keeps tightening in the bowl, so send it out looser than looks right.